This is my final part of my stash busting essential garment series. I can’t promise there won’t be more in the future – in fact you could lay money on the fact there will be, after all this is predominately a sewing blog!
Those of you who follow me on instagram, Facebook and Twitter, will have seen a sneaky peak at my Wanted Tee, by Vanessa Pouzet. For those of you who haven’t (and why not?!?!) here is the drunk picture:
I’ve been dying to make this top since the pattern was released at the beginning of the year, but it looked scarey with its stripes and square neck line, a neck line I’d never made before. In addition, the pattern instruction are written in French only. I don’t know about you, but I got a ‘C’ at GCSE French and since then haven’t really needed to use what I learned all those years ago. It’s shameful really. This didn’t help me understand the instructions, so I turned to Google translate. Whilst not as accurate as people think (reliably informed by my eldest daughter who is taking Spanish as one of her IB subjects), it gave me the essence of what the instructions were, seam allowances, fabric details etc. Please use this first if you find yourself in the same boat as me.
After getting to grips with the instructions, I realised that the majority of the making up was similar to every knit/jersey top I’d made so far. Using a overlocker (which I did) or zig zag stitch on a sewing machine, you put together the shoulders, insert the sleeves and sew the sides and the sleeve seams together in one go. Fairly straight forward.
The neck band, as mentioned, was a worry for me. It had corners, which I had never done before with a stretched neckband. How was I going to turn the corners of the square neck front, without bunching and ruining the shape intended?
With this I found the diagrams on the pattern instructions helpful, rather than relying on the translation. If you have sewn a neckband with knits/jersey fabric, the diagrams will help you decipher what steps you need to make.
I will try and assist here also:
Firstly you prepare the neck band by joining the back to the front piece at the ‘v’ shape on both sides so you get a band.
Secondly, snip the middle of the ‘v’ on both seams – just a little:
You then place the neckband corners 2cm to the sides of both corners of the square front neck and pin in place (here I kept the neckband folded, whereas the diagram shows this step with the neckband unfolded).
You then need to snip the corners of the neckline on the front bodice diagonally away from the edge of the neckline, within the 2cm allowance, just enough to ensure you can open out the neck to overlock or zig zag these corners. This helps to keep the corners sharp, but allowing a freedom to manoeuvre and sew the neckband in place.
Zig zag or overlock the neckband in one go as normal. Top stitch with a single or twin needle or not at all. I used a twin needle, and hopefully your neck will look something like this:
Mine isn’t perfect, as I ran out of thread half way through top stitching and didn’t want to unpick it all, so you can see where I have rejoined. Also I would have liked the top stitching to be in the black stripe at the front to not been seen as much. Vanessa Pouzet doesn’t show any top stitching, which looks better perhaps and neater.
Overall I’m really happy with my first of these tops and the fabric I used (in the sale in a local fabric shop) really worked well. I think is a polyester/spandex mix, with 20% stretch but great spring back to hold my bumps in! I would avoid any lightweight jersey as I think the shape of the neck will be lost. Another stash buster, using 1.5 meters.
It certainly stood the ‘night out drinking’ test!